上海煜捷纺织面料验货规范

上海煜捷纺织技术有限公司面料验货指引                                       Inspection Manual (E&JTEX)

验货方法 Inspection method 

1）验货方法Inspection system

- 4 point system, this is recommended建议四分制

- use 20points/100 square yd as a ref. standard 统一用20分/100平方码作为参考标准

2） 扣分方法Penalty points

Defects length up to 3” – 1point 疵点大小等于3英寸以下 - 扣1分

Defects length >3” <=6” – 2 points 疵点大于3英寸，小于等于6英寸 – 扣2分

Defects length >6” <=9” – 3 points疵点大于6英寸，小于等于9英寸 – 扣3分

Defects length >9” – 4 points疵点大于9英寸寸 – 扣4分

3）扣分其他规定 Other counting rules

- No more than 4 points in one yard regardless defects num. and length 无论疵点多少,大小,一码布最多只计4分

- No 4 pointer is allowed in 1st or last one yard of a roll 头尾一码不容许有4分的疵点

- All holes consisted of two broken yarns or above, regardless size, dropped stitches, splices, or seams will be penalized 4 points 破洞扣4分

- Fabric rolls are only allowed one cut and counts as 4 points 一匹布只容许一个裁断，并扣4分

- Fabric rolls are only allowed one seam and counted as 4 points一匹布只容许一个接匹（可接上或批匹），并扣4分

- Continuous defects in warp direction should be no longer than 3 running yards. If exceed, the fault should be cut away from the roll 

沿布长度方向不能有连续3米的疵点，如果有就要开掉这3米

- 100% inspection 规定100%全验

- The side of fabric, normally face, must be rolled inside and clearly marked as the face 面料的正面必须打卷在里面，并有明确正面标识

- A clean and well - kept and well - illuminated inspection area is required 验货的地方必须干净整洁， 光线要好

- Inspection speed no more than 15 yards per minute 验货速度不能快于15码/分钟

验货100平方码分数计算公式 Caculations of points per 100 square yds

每100平方码分数 = 总分数/码长(码）/门幅（英寸）x 3600

公斤换算成码的公式：

码长 = 公斤/ 【门幅（米）x 克重（千克）】/ 0.9144

边中色差评判方法Performance criteria

Side-center-side shading (grade 4-5 under grey scale)

Cut fabric along width direction into 4 pieces evenly, and then marked A/B/C/D in same direction. Sew to be B/A/D/C (edge tolerance 1CM）to see the color shading on the sew area. Grade the shading by grey scale. From left to right, the shading sequence is center + side / center +center / side + center  把面料沿门幅方向平均裁成4段，标记为A/B/C/D, 注意上下一致； 然后按照B/A/D/C 的顺序缝在一起（注意布边1CM 内缝线），按照用灰尺评估缝线的色差。从左自右依次是：中边 、 中中、边中色差。

纬斜和纬弧skewness & bow

- 纬斜或纬弧计算公式Bow or skewness % = A/B x100

- 纬斜或纬弧的要求Standard of skewness & bow

梭织布Woven: 3%

印花和格子布2%

条子布 1.5%

纬编针织布Weft knitting fabric:

含弹力的罗纹，双面，单面Rib, interlock and single jersey with elastane Max最大 5%

不含弹力单面布，克重140g/m2 以上Single jersey without elastane > 140 g/m2 Max最大 10%

不含弹力的单面布，克重在140g/m2 以下Single jersey without elastane < 140 g/m2 Max最大 15%

常用疵点中英文对照&英文简写

验货 – inspection

测试 – testing

合格 – pass

不合格 – fail

头缸 – first bulk

匹条 – roll cutting

船样 – shipping sample

色差 - color shading

缸差 - batch shading

边中色差 - Side Center Side Shading

手感 -  Hand feel

手感硬 – hand feel stiff

手感软 – hand feel soft

垂性 – drippy

弹性 – Stretch

门幅 – width

克重 – weight per square meter

气味 – smell /ode

怪味 – strange smell / ode

循环尺寸 – repeat size

纬斜 – sknewness

纬弧 – Bow

扭度 – twist / spirality

接匹（拼匹） – jointing piece

门幅窄 – width narrow

门幅宽 – width wide

米长 – Meter

码长 – Yard

重量 – KG

短数 – shortage of quantity

布边卷曲 – curve edge

破边 – broken edge

破洞 – hole

纱头/纱节– ends

接头 – yarn ends

棉粒/粒头 – neps

粗纱 – coarse yarn

色纱 – color yarn

异纤 （尼龙草）- foreign yarn

断纱 – broken yarn

断经 – warp yarn broken

断纬 – weft yarn broken

漏纱 – missing yarn

风印 – weather mark

水波纹 – water mark

折痕 – folding mark

胚布痕 – weaving / knitting mark

布车压痕 – folding mark from storage in the car

打卷印 – crease mark during rolling

皱印 – crease mark

纬档 – weft bar

经条（经柳）- warp stripe

稀密路 – stripe caused by yarn uneven

布面不平 – uneven appearance

擦伤（擦痕）- scratching mark

脏点 – dirty dot

脏污 – dirty / staining

白点 – white dots

黑点 – black dots

色点 – color dots

色渍印 – color mark

白印 – white mark

色档 – color bar

色花 – color uneven

成份 – composition

纱支 – yarn account

密度 – density

色牢度 – color fastness

洗水色牢度 – color fastness to washing

干洗色牢度 – color fastness to dry clean

水渍色牢度 – color fastness to water

干摩擦牢度 – color fastness to dry rubbing/ crocking

湿摩擦牢度 – color fastness to wet rubbing / crocking

汗渍牢度 – color fastness to perspiration

光牢度 – color fastness to light

洗水缩率 – shrinkage after washing

干洗缩率 – shrinkage after dry clean

整烫缩率 – shrinkage after steam iron or press

起毛起球 – pilling

耐磨 – abrasion

撕破强力 – tear strength

拉伸强力 – tensile strength

接缝强力滑移 – seam slippage

顶破强力 – bursting strength

酸碱度（PH 值）- PH value

偶氮染料 – AZO dye

有害的化学物质 – RSS (restricted substances)

评级 – grading

色变 – color change

沾色 – color staining

自沾色 –self staining

码单（装箱单）- pack list

客户 - customer

合同号 – contract No.

品名 – item No.

颜色 – color

缸号/批号 – batch / lot No.

卷号 – roll No.

唛头 – Shipping marker

包装 – packing

发货 – shipping

SHANG HAI E&J TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY CO.,LTD.

上海煜捷纺织技术有限公司

2018年5月拟定